Chunnel Vision

Jus' Gypsy Jazz

 IT may be over 70 years since Django Rheinhardt first took Gitane-smoking audiences by storm, but Paris’ love affair with jazz manouche (gypsy swing) just goes on – and on.

For proof, look no further than l’Atelier Charonne, which opened in April, just around the corner from the increasingly trendy rue de Lappe (11e.) Serving up jazz manouche five nights a week, it has already carved out a niche for itself as the place to hear some of the best live music in the genre.

Purists take note: la Chope des Puces this ain’t. The funky lighting, long bar and low leather chairs (“classe mais pas chic”, whatever that means) are an incongruous setting for music that fairly thrums with authenticity. Nor is the self-styled French menu much to sing about; my sugary risotto was followed by a cut of lamb so pinkly insipid I was surprised it didn’t bleat and skip off the plate.

But I hate to be churlish. After all, any club that regularly lays on great live gigs in the spirit of Django can’t be a bad thing. Last week, it was the turn of Alsace-born Tchavolo Schmitt, a star in the world of manouche jazz guitar, and an irrepressible virtuoso to watch and listen to. Witness him in action when he returns to the club on 23 September – but get there early if you want a good view from the bar.

l’Atelier Charonne 21 rue de Charonne, 11e. Live jazz manouche, 8.30pm Tues-Sat incl.

Related post: Duc des Lombards jazz club